FAQ'sIf you have a question to do with any aspect of composting, please send it to us via the form on the "contacts" page.
Q. How many worms do I need for my wormery?
A. It really depends on the size of the wormery, for most average sized domestic wormeries we would advise to start with .25kg, this is about 700 - 1000 mixed sized worm, some adult but many juveniles. If the wormery is a larger one for maybe 4 plus adults then .5kg would be advised.
Q. Do worm bins smell?
A. If the worm bin is working properly and being looked after, there will be no smell, if it is neglected and becomes anaerobic or sour, it will start to smell.
Q. Do wormeries work through the winter?
A.The efficiency of worms is dependant on temperatures, therefore if the temperatures are low, say below 5degC, then the worms will be very sluggish, the optimum temperatures are around 15degC to 20degC, if possible, it is advisable to move a wormery into warmer conditions such as a shed or garage when the weather is cold.
Q. Should I add worms to my ordinary compost bin?
A. Worms can be added to a compost bin but you may run into problems with them migrating this is because compost bins usually heat up, contain large amounts of uncomposted materials (potential worm food) and you are asking the worms to be happy and live in neat food! they really need a bedding area to escape to when the going gets tough, better to start a dedicated worm bin.
Q. What do worms eat?
A. Worms actually feed on the bugs, bacteria and fungus that grows on your organic waste as it decomposes.
Q. Are the big earthworms I find in the garden any good for composting ?
A. If they are the big worms with the flat tail (Lumbricus terrestris) are not good composting worms, they will quite happily live in or near your compost heap.
Q. What are Tiger worms?
A. Tiger worms are a composting worm, their proper name is Eisenia foetida (if you live in the UK) or Eisenia fetida (if you live in the rest of the world!) they are also known as Brandlings and Red Wigglers amongst others.
Q. My compost bin is not heating up, should I move it into the sun?
A. No, the bin does not heat up because of the sun, the heat is produced by the action of bugs, bacteria and fungii decomposing the waste, they need to have a good supply of air to work, if your compost is compacted, give it a good stir, if its wet add in some shredded paper and/or cardboard, this should kick start it into working.
Q. Which composting bin should I use, one open to the ground or one with a bottom to it?
A. It really depends where you are going to site it, if its on soil then go for the open bottom, this will allow local worms to go in and improve the composting but stand it on a piece of mesh to keep out any inquisitive rodents! If you are siting it on a patio or something where it can spoil then use the enclosed bottom type.
Q. I have aquired a composting bin from our council but the level is not going down, any idea why?
A. For a compost bin or heap to work satisfactorily there are several things that have to be implemented.
1. the waste being added should be a mix of greens and browns ie. greens are the vegetable waste, peelings etc and the browns are paper, cardboard, leaves etc, these should be about half and half, this should all be damp when added to the bin,
2.it is also advisable to try and chop it up into smaller pieces, this gives a bigger surface area for the all important bugs and bacteria to get to work on.
3.When its time to add the next batch, give the last lot in the bin a really good stirring with a strong fork, try and get it turned over, this allows more air in for the bugs and bacteria to continue thriving.
4.Do not overload with any one particular waste material, grass cuttings are a favourite for this mistake.
The smaller compost bins are very often full up before composting has really taken hold, consider adding a second bin into which the contents from the bottom of the first bin can be moved into. Larger wooden systems are more effective. |
